We t is the cardiovascular system out-of Chicken. Konya, a region from a million souls, squatting smack in the center of Anatolia's wild simple, in the middle of unlock, endless prairie. Turkey's very culturally traditional town, Konya looks initially become a place out-of tight headscarves and you can foreboding beards, from ostentatiously noticed pieties and you can forbidden beers. But uncovering Konya is not difficult – to possess right here, in the middle of one's dated urban area, in his tomb from turquoise ceramic tiles, is Jelaluddin Rumi.
Rumi is one of the planet's most comprehend poets. During the his existence, and since his demise during the 1273, pilgrims came to Konya. Today, Rumi's tomb is Turkey's 2nd most-went to site visitors destination pursuing the Topkapi Palace in Istanbul. Rumi try a mystic, an excellent Sufi saint exactly who loved all the religions, and you may whose very own faith is actually like. His supporters manage (and still would) get rid of themselves within the hypnotic trance and you will dancing, both rotating such passes day long.
There clearly was a huge, epic the newest civil auditorium in which it sensitive whirling human dancing was performed, and you will one number of charming sleek-eyed mystics from inside the carpet shops, cafes and gothic bazaars, most of the delighted in order to invite you to definitely a private zikhr
This type of whirling dervishes are now actually the latest symbol from Turkey's tourism procedures, and you can drink beverage on the Istanbul hotel lobby seeing specific bad bloke during the a tall beige felt hat spinning to have your own entertainment. With the real deal, regardless of if, become heree in order to Konya therefore visited Turkey's soul. Inside the Rumi's terminology:
"Anyone who you happen to be, already been Even if you could be A keen infidel, a great pagan, otherwise an excellent fireworshipper, already been The brotherhood isn’t among despair Though you have broken Their vows from repentance a hundred times, come."
Pretty much every 12 months as the 1983, I've been upcoming for the a few mil-or-very tourist exactly who check out Konya per year. Most are Turkish, although many Iranians (whom claim Rumi since their very own, since the guy Hvordan fГҐr du en postordre brud typed within their vocabulary and you will was born in east Persia) along with result in the pilgrimage.
In lieu of and also make Konya a halt to your a bus tour, I will suggest being for a few days, soaking up an impact, eating a few of Turkey's ideal lamb, enjoying the greatest Seljuk tissues and – maybe – falling in love with Rumi. You might fly in affordably off Istanbul, from where additionally there is a beneficial scruffy, atmospheric teach, otherwise are available by-road. Konya is during simple reach of cave dwellers and you will carpeting manufacturers from Cappadocia.
Rumi arrived here since the a great boy, when Konya had already been a district for 2,000 ages. It actually was situated of the Hittites, have been succeeded because of the Phrygians, then the Lydians, Persians, Cappadocians, the fresh new leaders out-of Pergamon and also the Romans, just who known as place Iconium. Saints Paul and you may Barnabus one another preached right here, however, from the 1071 the latest Seljuks, a good Turcoman tribe, was in control, in addition to their structural heritage suffers.
Their Karatay Medrese of 1251 is a masterpiece out-of ornate tiling and you can good domes. It’s today the latest Art gallery regarding Tiles and Ceramics, whose articles take care of the vibrancy and you may punch they'd whenever earliest fired. Nearby, the brand new Ince Minarali Medrese became the fresh Museum from Stone and Wood Carving, and is much less dead than just You will find managed to get voice. These structures whet urge for food to discover the ornately tiled Sircali Medrese, therefore the breathtaking Sahip Ata mosque: in the place of a lot of the fresh Muslim industry, in the Chicken you’re motivated to go to mosques, whichever the religious choice.
From the junction of dated urban area as well as ugly the newest neighbor is the Alaaddin mosque, the latest city's vantage section, whose gorgeous black pulpit and sensitive and painful prayer-market come from 1155 (the fresh complex is actually finished in 1221). Brand new boulevard radiating from here brings one to Rumi's tomb, where a great deal more later on. Rumi can Turks since Mevlana (the fresh Sainted You to), and today Konya is in thrall to help you Mevlanamania.
While i earliest came, Mevlana's supporters, the fresh Mevlevi, had been a prohibited organization, tolerated simply for their "folkloric dance" and you can whirlings. Meetings took place secretly, illegally.
I mentioned dinner, also. Konya's mutton-centric cuisine is excellent. Etli ekmek was a long, slim roll-right up pizza spread that have delicately spiced mince, and you will Konya kebab is a lamb shank, very more sluggish roasted and you will supported on the a cushion away from dough having a sweet red onion. Top was at Konak (Restoran, Akcesme mah. Piriesat Cad. No 5, +ninety 332 352 85 47), whoever soup and you may selfmade yoghurt are heaven-produced.
Thus, superbly provided, in accordance with of a lot cups of nice tannic tea inside you, build your answer to Rumi's tomb. Your join the awestruck, the latest interested and also the fervent. A mysterious twinkly white takes on into the tombs out of Rumi and you may his supporters. The wall space try stitched with calligraphy, therefore the ceilings are an effective kaleidoscope out-of superbly executed arabesques. Rumi's tomb is included for the greatly stitched material from gold, and you can appears to radiate light and you will comfort and you may mercy.
Are common went, having listed here is like
A number of their fellow pilgrims will see Korans, while some Rumi's poetry. Very grab pictures, although this is purely forbidden. There are individuals who weep silently, and people who make fun of aloud; people who reflect non-stop, and people who rush because of.
Playing quietly and insinuating in itself into your understanding 's the ney, a good reed flute. It may sound eg breathy air, but is truly the sound out-of fire, and this goes up and you can falls in to the us all. This isn't certain sullen spiritual complaining, nevertheless the sound off yearning, of communion, of your cardiovascular system. You have got it – it's soul tunes, plus it most provides you with. Thus already been.
Turkish Air companies (020-7471 6666) flies so you're able to Konya through Istanbul out of Heathrow, Stansted, Birmingham and you may Manchester, regarding ?219 rtn inc taxes. Istanbul to help you Konya from the train will cost you throughout ?24 go back, or about ?36 go back of the bus. Hotel Balikcilar features bedroom or around ?70 (and have now suits cooler drinks). Hotel Dergah (+ninety 332 351 76 61) bedroom to ?20. Tickets observe this new whirling dervishes try free from the fresh tourist place of work, behind Mevlana's tomb. Mete Horzum during the SeleneTour (+ninety 532 564 9192, ) arranges personal whirling and zikhr regarding ?30pp.